Chasing magnolias

A day well-spent in Milan

Magnolia season seems to have become the European equivalent of cherry blossom season in Japan, with tourists making their way to designated magnolia spots. And I am no exception to those tourists because I am the ultimate flower-girl. I love flowers, and especially all flowers that come in pink. In many cultures, including Japan, magnolias symbolize purity, nobility, dignity, perseverance and love for nature. Magnolias are one of the world’s oldest known flowers, mentioned in the Ketuvim and Old Testament of the Bible, for example. In Europe, magnolias are in full bloom around mid to end of March, depending on the country you are in.

Last March, I went on a long weekend to Milan, and seeing magnolias was one of the many benefits of this visit. I had looked up how to get to the Piazza Tommaseo, a famed magnolia-watching spot and I will tell you about it today.

I have been to Milan many times, and the city never disappoints. It is one of my go-to travel destinations if I am very honest with you because I always find exactly what I am looking for at that moment in my life; a good break, food, tradition, shopping if I feel like it, and beauty all around as well as supermarket shelves with a good selection of Taralli. The hotel I stayed at in Santa Sofia was wonderful and perfectly located. I could take the tram or the metro and nothing in the centre of Milan was really far away. After having shopped a bit and had pizza and ice cream on day one, I felt like doing other things and seeing a new part of town on day two. So, I looked up how to get to the small Piazza located in a mainly residential area famous for its magnolia trees.

From the Piazza del Duomo, you would walk around the corner on to Via Tommaso Grossi and its tram 1 stop, which – generously speaking – is conversely just opposite the big Starbucks Coffee Roastery and the enormous Uniqlo shop on Piazza Cardusio, which also has a metro stop of line M1. While you can get to Piazza Tommaseo by taking the metro, I would highly recommend not doing so and taking tram 1 instead, because that way, you actually get to see Milan over ground, which, I suppose is part of the reason you came to visit in the first place. 

And before we get onto that tram, let me just give you a warm recommendation for the Starbucks Roastery. While Starbucks or cappuccino after 11 a.m. clearly aren’t part of Italian culture, this place is nevertheless very special and beautiful and, in my opinion, a touristic must visit, not least because you can sit down for a while having your coffee as opposed to standing at a bar for 5 minutes only. That will come in very handy after or before a full day of touristic walking around. Second, if you are into cakes, this café is a feast for the eyes and probably the tastebuds, too. Since I did have my cappuccino before 12 and was hence still full from a fantastically oversized breakfast, I stuck to coffee – probably the fourth of the morning – and very much enjoyed the smell of freshly roasted coffee beans, the chance to sit and people watch for a while as well as the never-to be-discounted access to a clean restroom. 

But back to our magnolia-spotting adventure: Via Grossi is the first and last stop of tram 1’s trajectory, thus your chances of getting a seat on the rather small tram is quite high. As the tram winds its way through the city centre, it passes Cadorna station, Piazza Virgilio and then reaches the Via Venti Settembre stop after no more than 20 minutes. This stop is located in a quiet area of town with large boulevard-like streets, framed by plane trees and imposing villas. And if you get off at the wrong stop, it does not even matter, because the next one will be just straight ahead, and I can assure you, you won’t get lost. Now, if you managed to get off at the right stop, you should cross the street to the left, walk on, cross Via Tamburini, continue straight past the beauty salon on your left-hand side and turn left at the corner into Via Petrarca.

While I have a soft spot for Milan’s historic trams and always find travelling over ground much more interesting when I am travelling, you also have the option of taking the metro back to the Duomo or wherever you were coming from. M1 stop Conciliazione is just a short walk down Via Gian Battista Bazzoni if you exit Piazza Tommaseo to the left of the church.

I, of course, made my way back to tram 1, which was filled with afternoon travellers, neighbours and chatty old ladies speaking to the driver, as well as tourists from near and far. I love sitting on the same side of the tram I sat on when I arrived, so I can see what the other side of the streets I saw earlier has to offer. 

Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t the best when I went. It was a rather grey and misty afternoon, but the old, enormous magnolia trees did not disappoint. It was truly beautiful, and so was that part of the city. And if it had not been for the magnolias, I would never have discovered it. 

If you are interested in seeing what else I did that day, have a look at the short reel I put together of day 2 in Milan 2025.